Fashion! In Togo

One aspect of life in Togo that never ceases to amuse me is Togolese fashion. As you walk through any town or village in Togo, you may become dizzy by the sheer number of colors and patterns moving about their daily lives. One of my favorite culture shocks in Togo is the clothing people choose to wear. In this blog, I would like to share about traditional clothing in Togo, some of the amazing outfits I've encountered, and how my fashion sense has changed since arriving in Togo (as if I ever had one in the states). Finally, I would like to shout out the best dressed in Togo (in my opinion at least).

Volunteers in our pagne outfits

West Africa is well known for its creative and vibrant fabrics. Called "pagne" in Togo, these fabrics can be found in nearly any market and come in every color and pattern imaginable, and then some patterns you yourself could never have dreamed up. These fabrics are bought by the yard and can greatly vary in quality and price (anywhere from 1,000 CFA to 70,0000 CFA per yard!!). Pagne has many uses in everyday life in Togo: women wrap it around themselves as a skirt or dress; it is taken to a tailor and made into clothing; it is used as bed sheets, bath towels, bags, rags, or diapers; and it is wrapped around babies as mothers carry them on their backs. I, like most volunteers here, enjoy picking out fun fabrics at the market and then taking them to a local tailor to have made into a dress, skirt, or pants. While the tailors have certain models they are accustomed to, they are almost always open to trying new styles we bring them, resulting in many fun dresses, shirts, and even overalls sported by volunteers. Pagne outfits are appropriate for any occasion in Togo: attending church, hanging out at home, working in the field, going to the market, or attending special events.

Matching pagne with our training host families

Pagne was originally introduced to West Africa by the Dutch, and it became a booming industry across the region led by a group of women called the "Nana Benz" (because they were the only ones rich enough to own a Mercedes Benz) who imported and sold the fabrics. The Nana Benz were based in Lome, the capital of Togo, and are an interesting example of female empowerment and entrepreneurship at the highest level in Togo. Today, some pagne is made in West Africa, but most is still imported from the Netherlands and China. This has spurred an interesting debate among West Africans who want to promote pagne production in Africa so that Africans can fully benefit from the industry. Other traditional fabric is still woven by hand or using looms. These fabrics tend to be thicker and are typically saved for special occasions.

While traditional fabrics are still widely popular, and nearly everyone owns at least one outfit with these fabrics, the Togolese wardrobe is not limited to pagne and other traditional fabrics. In fact, the Togolese wardrobe seems to have no limits at all.

Togolese fashion is a great representation of the impacts of globalization, modernization meeting traditional customs, and the impacts of over consumption in the western world. Today, pagne pants or skirts are often paired with a Michael Jordan Bulls jersey or a Trader Joes's sweatshirt. Used and excess clothing from the United States has found its way into the local markets of Togo, and I have done a couple of double takes as I see someone walk by wearing an Iowa State University cap or a t-shirt spouting profanity. Of course, rule number one of Togolese fashion is never ask anyone about their t-shirt. People rarely know the true meaning or significance of phrases and images on their shirts, proving that American culture only extends so far into Togo. Apparently, rappers such as SixNine or Lil Wayne were not the best with design and marketing in apparel, because I have seen many gaudy shirts with these rappers' faces and logos worn throughout the country without a single person knowing who they actually are. Clearly, these designs were not a hit in the US, so they were shipped overseas. The only shirts that have significance here are group t-shirts locally designed for special events or cooperatives and soccer jerseys, which is the outfit of choice for most men and boys in the village.

The neighbor boys trying to look cool in their party fits

As you walk through markets, you can rifle through heaps of clothing--any thrifter's dream. I have come to the conclusion that men and women's clothing is not separated, and the vendor and customers are none the wiser. I have gone to the field with old men wearing lacey women's blouses (hey they're breezy) and have encountered men I know to be masons/carpenters/farmers and fathers of 5-10 wear what to me is clearly a woman's t-shirt or sporting a pink Hello Kitty backpack as they head out for a day's worth of work. I don't know what goes on in people's heads as they rifle through these clothing piles, but boooy do they find some gems. I have seen fishnet wife beaters, velvet turtlenecks, a sleeveless leather trench coat that seems to come straight out of the matrix, a Christmas themed crocodile onesie (flashing lights and all), high-top studded Crocs, and much, much more.

Boys cross dressing for a celebration

As for me, I have enjoyed designing dresses with several local tailors using pagne I found in the markets, and I have become more accustomed to wearing dresses. Though most days, my outfit is chosen by one determining factor: what will be most comfortable to sweat in (turns out that tends to be soccer jerseys, so the men are on to something). I no longer avoid leaving the house wearing clashing colors or patterns on patterns. Most days whatever is clean and coolest goes. Like most farmers, I have a select set of clothing for the fields which includes pants permanently stained with dirt, disintegrating t-shirts, and a very sun-bleached baseball cap. While people do not dress overly conservative here, it is still unusual seeing women wearing shorts and most dresses and skirts fall well below the knee. As a result, I tend to wear pants or long dresses out and about and leave shorts for the household (that has extended to the neighborhood during the hot season) and sports (people always know I am headed to play soccer when they see me out and about in shorts). Overall, I would say my sense of fashion has neither improved nor worsened while here (that's really not saying much btw), though I now have some fun dresses I hope to bring home with me.

Me in one of my many pagne dresses (last year during training)

And now the moment you all have been waiting for: the best dressed of Togo. In my opinion, this award goes to the men, women, and children fitted out on their way to the mosque for Friday's prayer (the holy day for Muslims). Don't get me wrong, some of the Sunday church fits go hard and soccer matches always tend to be an entertaining fashion show conducted by the spectators, but no one knows how to do it quite like the Muslims. I love watching the men headed to mosque looking sharp in their traditional garments and caps and their sons following suit as little mini me's, and the women wearing beautiful flowy dresses with their gold jewelry and a hijab and sparkly veil that perfectly match the outfit. The time and effort they put into their appearance before headed to their place of worship shows their dedication to God and the pride they have in their culture.

My French teacher Issa, sporting a traditional Koto Koli outfit often worn to the mosque

All in all, there is space in Togolese fashion for any style, any personality, and any occasion. Upon arrival to a community event, you can be reassured to find someone completely balled out in traditional garments, someone wearing more modern streetwear, someone who looks like they could enter a soccer match at any moment, and someone who clearly came directly from the field. To my delight (and partial relief), this means you can rarely be under or over dressed for an event. The busy, creative, unique, and vibrant outfits often worn in Togo are a good representation of the overall culture and way of life in Togo. I admire people's confidence to wear what they please with little regard to what others may think. An admirable trait I hope to pick up; well, to a certain extent at least...

Group of women I worked with 

My bestie Igbert (I have matching pagne)