Togo Transportation: The realities of getting from point A to point B

"Life is a highway and I want to ride it alll night looong"...

Broken down bush taxi

Except in Togo. Definitely not in Togo. 

Growing up in the Midwest where a family of five can justify a road trip to nearly anywhere in the US over hopping on a flight, driving was simply a part of everyday life. Learning to drive at 14 (maybe even a couple attempts at 13...), getting my first car at 16, and having access to a car at nearly any moment throughout my life was certainly a privilege I didn't fully appreciate until moving to Togo where transportation is long, messy, exhausting, and often dangerous. In this post, I would like to share the transportation situation in Togo and my experience traveling throughout Togo via public transportation.

Unlike many places in the states, the average citizen in Togo does not own a motor vehicle. Motorcycles are far more common than cars, and here, they are operated like dirt bikes. They weave through narrow paths between homes, honking around blind turns to warn the unsuspecting grandma returning from the fields carrying 50+ pounds worth of firewood on her head. It does not take long to develop an ear for the sounds of an approaching motorcycle while walking through town, alerting you to get the hell out of the way. Those fortunate enough to own motorcycles use them as their main mode of transportation to the fields, often saving them an hour walk each way. I have seen many, many, different motorcycle techniques in Togo by drivers ranging from 10 to 90 years old. I have also witnessed 5+ people riding on a single moto together, and I have seen bicycles, livestock, 10 ft long metal rods, and even another motorcycle being transported on motos. 

Helmets are considered optional here, though Togo is making an effort to enforce their use. We were here when this campaign started in the capitol, Lome, though the government had yet to define what exactly qualified as a helmet. I appreciated people's creativity in those first few weeks, as I watched people zoom past with plastic hard hats, batting helmets (I don't even know how those got here), buckets, backwards helmets, and anything else one could find in their house balanced on their heads to satisfy the new mandate and to avoid receiving a fine or having their moto confiscated. Unfortunately, far more people should be wearing helmets on a motorcycle, as they are extremely dangerous here. Traffic accidents are the number one cause of death in Togo, and an alarming portion of these accidents occur on motorcycles. Sadly, several young lives have been lost in my community since I have been here, and I know countless people who have suffered injuries from motorcycle accidents over the past year. Togo is one of the few Peace Corps posts that allows its volunteers to ride motorcycles due to our limited access to transportation. However, we must follow a strict set of rules, requiring us to wear helmets, avoid riding on the national highway, and riding one passenger to a moto. While it can sometimes be hard to explain these rules to community members wanting to give you a lift, it makes sense as transportation is the most dangerous part of my life in Togo, an otherwise very safe country in my experience.

Another fun form of transportation found throughout Togo are moto tricycles. Essentially, these are large motorcycles with a cart attached. While they are very slow, these vehicles are mostly used to transport large items or large groups of people to and from the fields or celebrations in nearby villages.

Those who have invested in cars typically become taxi drivers to commercialize their asset. Taxis zoom up and down the national highway that runs north to south across the entire country. Most drivers have a daily route that consists of 3-4 hours in a single direction, picking up passengers waiting with their luggage on the side of the road, and then making their way home while of course picking up as many passengers as possible along the way. These drivers are thrifty, resourceful, and often charming, but their driving style would have most Americans white knuckling the seat in front of them. Legally, vehicles drive on the right side of the road in Togo, but I would say a more accurate description is that vehicles drive on the part of the road where there is not a pothole, person, goat, or other vehicle. Passing techniques often match those practiced by a 9-year-old boy racing cars in an arcade. While mechanics here should be praised for their ability to resurrect a car that would have been abandoned in the junk yard 10 years prior in the states, they certainly are not following any safety guidelines. A car with functioning doors, seatbelt, a fully intact windshield, and a working speedometer is a rare find in Togo, and those rides should be cherished. I doubt I've ever gotten in a taxi with working airbags, most likely because they had already been deployed at some point and then never replaced.

Our car that broke down 2 minutes into the trip

For longer trips, larger vehicles called 15-seaters (quinze-place) by the locals and bush-taxis by the volunteers, are the cheapest transportation option. Though, the term 15-seater is a misleading name, as there are often 20-25 passengers in the vehicles which is also stacked with luggage on top of the roof. These vehicles are in no better (if not worse) condition than the cars, and travel is slow, slow, slow with many stops to pick and drop off passengers. These taxis are bound to break down, and I have been stranded on the side of the road with fellow passengers for several hours due to broken transmission belts, overheating engines, or popped tires. Charter buses are a far more comfortable and a slightly more expensive option for longer trips, though I question their illusion of increased safety as they hurtle down the highway at far greater speeds than the bush taxis.

Comfort is not a word associated with travel here in Togo. Trips are long, hot, noisy, and very crowded. Drivers seek to maximize their profits by stuffing as many people in their vehicle as humanly possible. A car suited for five, often contains nine people, plus several children sitting on laps, and a few chickens and goats here and there. Every seat is shared in the vehicle, including the driver's seat...

Overloaded bush taxi without a back windshield

Apart from the charter buses, taxi tariffs are not set, so you must be prepared to barter the cost of your trip as you flag down a taxi. While this was intimidating at first, you begin to learn the standard prices for certain routes, often allowing you to receive the true price rather than paying double. I have been amazed at most drivers' honesty once the price has been set. I have rarely been asked for more at the end of a trip, and they will make change for you if need be.

As a volunteer, adapting to Togo's transportation methods has been challenging and sometimes scary. In my early days, I had to hype myself up before stepping out along the highway to flag down a driver, which can take anywhere from one minute to two hours; bargain for the correct price in a foreign language; climb into a car packaged with strangers; and direct the driver to drop you off at a new, often unknown place to you. However, this process does not always have to be done completely alone. Friends in my village will often sit and chat with me as I wait for a taxi, help me flag it down, and ensure I get the right price. I have befriended taxi drivers from my community who have given me free rides or helped me out in a pinch. Rides are always an "adventure", and you must begin your journey with the expectation that the trip will take twice as long as it should, and that it will be hot, cramped, and uncomfortable. That being said, some of my best stories from Togo take place in an overcrowded vehicle sitting with strangers who become temporary comrades riding in solidarity for those few uncomfortable hours.

I would be lying if I said the challenges of transportation in Togo has not deterred me from exploring the country and visiting other volunteers. I don't share this information to scare you or have you worry about me. Though if you ever want to pray for me, I request you pray that I stay safe in all of my travels--my guardian angel has been working overtime these days. Instead, I share this information to show the reality of transportation in Togo--something that is often a necessary part of life and business here. Transportation methods make it hard for many people to travel, and it is not uncommon to run into people who have not been further than 15 minutes from their village. Large, overloaded semi-trucks frequent the highway 24/7, adding yet another risk factor as these trucks are top-heavy and extremely slow, resulting in many risky passing decisions. On nearly every road trip, I have passed a crashed, burned vehicle or tipped semi with its contents strewn all over the road. Passengers in the car click their tongues in dismay of what was probably a fatal accident and talk about how dangerous the road is as they hurtle down the highway with a driver who is probably making the same exact decisions that led to the other accident. Either people have simply accepted the dangers involved with traveling, or they don't believe something like that could also happen to them just as easily. I often wonder how many hours, dollars (or CFA), and lives would be saved if Togo improved its road conditions and enforced more road rules. While police are stationed throughout the country and traffic stops are common, drivers often use bribes to speed up the process and avoid being cited for safety infractions. If I ever became a multimillionaire, I would certainly invest in rebuilding the highway system in Togo.

A semi with some human passengers

Despite its challenges, I have still had the opportunity to explore many beautiful places across Togo, as well as visit several volunteers in their communities. Transportation here is challenging, but it has taught me how to be more patient, adaptable, and assertive. I will certainly appreciate the ability to simply walk out the door and hop in your car to go anywhere you please on a whole new level when I return home.

Thankful for all of our PC drivers who keep us safe